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Bramwell Staff on Adventures - Hilda Carse in Orkney
Tall Ships, Sheep, Sunshine, Sea-shanties & Seals (& seashores)
The influence of the sea is everywhere in Orkney – in the light, wildlife, history & archaeology even the lovely jewellery & textiles.The light brings out the colours – cows of every shade wallow in seas of wildflowers and the clear blue/green seas wash the white, red or golden sands.
The birdlife is remarkable. Gannets cruised by the seacliffs against a sparkling sea. Puffins funnily flapped by just above the water. One Skua, despite my watchfulness, silently closed in and succeeded in swiping my head with its wings! One evening a haar rolled in and the tent was surrounded by Oystercatchers ‘peeping’ to themselves.Red Throated Divers’ haunting calls drifted over moorland lochans and Short eared owls were a regular sight. Best of all was seeing a beautiful Hen Harrier’s low dancing flight right next to me.
The lovely island of North Ronaldsay is one I have wanted to visit for a long time. I flew up from Kirkwall in, basically, a Reliant Robin with wings.
The native North Ronaldsay sheep are confined to the shore by an impressive stone wall that surrounds the island, Fulmars nest at its foot. The sheep feed almost exclusively on seaweed and can no longer live on good grassland, but you’d be forgiven for thinking they farm Curlews there were so many in the fields.
I have never seen so many seals. Common seals with their pups allowed me quite close. Harbour porpoises passed by. Black Guillemots squeaked on the rocks quite unafraid. On the return flight the pilot took us (a full plane of 7 people & one Springer Spaniel) off course to see the Tall Ships Race sailing in. Quite a sight !
There was a real festival feel in Stromness to welcome the Tall Ships. As someone who likes songs about hard work, hard times, the sea and winter the ‘Roaring Forties’ performance of ‘Icebound’ was particularly good – sea-shanties told the tale of an ill-fated Arctic whaling trip from the Tyne.
I love the sea and tried my new toy, a hydrophone, in the clear water near Limpets and Beaded Anemones. By the noise they make I think they eat crisps down there.
Allow plenty of time for Orkney it’s quite a place.